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  • Bluedome
    ourselves I feel that we have not seen the last of Jon Amos and his team David Lynch Editor BlueDome A word from Jon Amos An Inspirational Story Russell Newman Kilimanjaro The Roof of Africa The Project 98 Team Jon Amos and the team on Great Gable Our Expedition Sponsors page Expedition Kit List and Diary Dates Meet the Team Princes Quay 10th January 1998 The Chair Full Specifications E

    Original URL path: http://www.bluedome.co.uk/Climbing/jonamos/jonamosnewindex.htm (2016-02-10)
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  • Bluedome
    it would restrict blood circulation a sure way to encourage frostbite Even an instep crampon may be impossible to use on boots of this type A B1 boot will accept a C1 crampon but not C2 or C3 crampons A B2 boot will be able to accept C1 and C2 type crampons A B3 boot will take the lot from C1 to C3 although they will perform best with the C3 crampons In Practice If you are unsure as to the suitability of your boots take them to your retailer or e mail us and we will try to give the best advice we can Brian s system of grading boots and crampons is being accepted by more and more boot manufacturers hopefully it will become the standard for judging whether a set of spikes and your footwear are compatible Getting Some In Trying out your first set of crampons normally meant you were going to put them on and climb some wintery outcrop One alternative was to get your crampons and ice axes and climb the nearest big tree very unkind to the tree One other way is to find an indoor climbing wall with an indoor ice climbing facility The only one I know in the UK is the Rope Race at Marple I know they ve got one I came up with the idea Made from a hard closed cell foam their wall allows novices to practice front pointing in safety More facilities of this type would allow novice ice climbers to get used to the equipment and feel of climbing with axes and crampons Although walls of this type do not reproduce the real conditions they do give the beginner a chance to use the equipment in safety If winter hill walking and climbing is for you then take note of some advice from the organisations who exist to help and train climbers The British mountains in winter have been the training ground for many famous mountaineers and alpinistes They have also witnessed some tragedies winter hillwalking and climbing demand some refinement of your skills The winter hills need to treated with respect and every aspect of your skills and abilities will need to be refined Much of this can be done by yourself but booking on to an approved skills course will speed up your progress Take advantage of the many courses that are available The M L T B can offer advice on their approved centres offering winter skills courses and both the A M I and the B A E M L have instructors who will tailor a course to suit your exact needs Crampon Types First find out if your footwear will accept crampons Then look at what is available from the various manufacturers and start trying some onto your boots Some designs will go straight on others will need a bit of re engineering often provided via a few belts off a well aimed hammer Any crampon should be a push

    Original URL path: http://www.bluedome.co.uk/Climbing/climbcrampons/climbcrampons.html (2016-02-10)
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  • Bluedome
    struggling up a wet thawing Aladdins Mirror Direct in the Cairngorms wondering where the attraction of ice climbing lay The first piece of advice I would give is to suggest you purchase a copy of the excellent guidebook Waterfall Ice Climbs in the Canadian Rockies by Joe Josephson In addition to the relevant detail on routes and grades the guide is packed with lots of other useful information The grades by the way are probably a grade harder than their Scottish equivalent especially in the middle grades In other words a Canadian technical grade 3 would more likely equate to a Scottish grade 4 though the ice will in most cases be of better quality Whether this holds true in the higher grades is something you will have to discover for yourselves In a normal year if there is such a thing the climbing season extends from early November through until early April March is probably the most friendly month with longer days warmer temperatures and softer ice You will probably find the trails to the routes to be well trodden by this time of year Having said this after a snowfall or for those routes further into the wilderness Skis or Snowshoes are definitely recommended On the subject of equipment you d be well advised on current exchange rates to buy your technical equipment once you have arrived in Canada The Mountain Equipment Co Op on 10th Avenue in Calgary has a wide selection of gear at very competitive prices The 1 200 000 Banff Kootenay and Yoho National Parks maps give good overviews of most of the climbing areas and will allow you to get a feel of distances and scale There are a number of hostels along the main highway between Canmore and Jasper which are reasonably

    Original URL path: http://www.bluedome.co.uk/Climbing/climice.html (2016-02-10)
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  • Bluedome
    no intention of completing the routes within 24 hours as per the usual Three Peaks challenge the routes we had chosen would not allow it At 3 30 am on Saturday morning we parked up at Pen y Pas and prepared to set off after the obligatory group picture As we pulled on our sacks we were joined by a group from Lytham St Anne s oh no were they going to dog us round all weekend No luckily they were doing the Welsh 3000 s and with a mutual sigh of relief we passed them and headed up to Crib Goch in the pre dawn murk Day broke as we started allong the ridge sun tingeing the clouds which surrounded Llewid and Snowdon with a red glow We reached the summit at around 5 45 am The summit cairn was all frosted with ice and with strong winds chilling us we soon took shelter in the nearby tramway We stayed there a few minutes eating and waitng for a break in the clouds to give us a view the clouds stayed and we had to continue without the view By 7 30 am we were back at the minibus walking the drivers for a brew Time was lost on the way to Scafell firstly McDonalds was on the wrong side of the carriageway and we all wanted Mcbreakfast Secondly we hit the Blackpool Bank Holiday traffic Nearly two hours of the schedule slipped away Close to 1 30 pm we were on our way up to Sty Head The day was becoming pleasant with the temperatute reaching the mid 70 s or 20 something if you re in Celsius We passed a family with a daughter aged only seven on their way up to Scafell just before we entered Skew Gill The Gill passed with little incident Cust Gully was more entertaining with a squeeze under a chockstone and a tricky headwall which required a rope for Ken Back in the open again we headed for Scafell and passed the same family again as we climbed the final steps to the top The route back to Sty Head and Borrowdale was more of an amble however Paul twisted his knee and Mark was suffering with arthritis in his knee Back at the bus Derek and Cis returned from a trip to the icecream van to make us a brew Refuelling ourselves was the next item on the agenda and the Little Chef at Gretna Green beckoned An impromptu but interesting sight seeing trip around Glasgow follwed Cis was driving and Derek got full blame for the navigation errors We eventually decided to wake Mark from his slumbers to get us out of Govan and on our way to the highlands At about midnight we bivied down at the end of Glen Coe and tried to sleep The plan was to set off at 4 00 am but this didn t deter Mark from pitching his tent Soon after 5

    Original URL path: http://www.bluedome.co.uk/Climbing/climthre.html (2016-02-10)
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  • Bluedome
    in places is very steep There is much more here in the higher grades Older partly aided routes have been re equipped and free climbed One of the Best of these is Vie Des Crecerelles 7a 7a There will be a lot of 7 8 grade climbing here shortly as the pace of development is frantic The development is catering for the pleasure climber also with slay routes in grades 5 and 6 being added to the wings of the crag Hautpierre is at about 650m altitude and is cooler than the others on very hot days and the views across towards the Jura are superb To get to the crag follow the D67 from Ornans towards Pontarlier and turn left up the D244 to the small village of Hautpierre Le Chatelet The road takes you just below the crag Before you reach the village park at a large memorial cross by the road next to a shack covering a cattle drinking fountain The path dips under the fence just before the cross and contours to the crag in about five minutes I don t know exactly how many routes there are at present but there is no shortage Harder Routes The crag I enjoyed the best was Rochers du Quint pronounced like the philosopher Kant appropriately enough as many of the routes make you think Up to 35 meters high it is confusingly also known as Baume les Dames but they are one and the same The excellent quality of the rock here is given away by some of the route names such as Petit Verdon 6b Ozone 7a is an essential tick with brilliantly sharp holds and flutes Also A Chacun Diamant 7b is great fun especially if it is raining as it stays completely dry Many of the routes have tufas to pinch grip and of course gouttes It is a good crag for the grade seven climber there being 48 routes in that category For the super heroes there are six 7c ten 8a 8a four 8b 8b and two 8c routes enough for a week at least even for Dougie Hall Quint is on the outskirts of Baume les Dames 30km from Besancon on the N83 It can be reached cross country from Ornans quite quickly Just before the N83 drops down the hill into Baume les Dames town turn right down a minor road towards Champvans les Baume Just before the hill drops down into Baume les Dames again there is a right turning at a mini roundabout with a convenient signpost to Rocher du Quint Follow the road under the railway to a parking spot peacefully situated by the river Doubs The crag is about 200 metres to the left the rocks to the right are a climbing playground called Baume Rousse that has 50 routes of their own The 1992 topo is available from Libraire Papeterie J M Blanchon in Baume les Dames Gilles Blanchon the proprietor equipped and climbed many of

    Original URL path: http://www.bluedome.co.uk/Climbing/climfeat.html (2016-02-10)
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  • Bluedome
    V S 5 6 13 14 V 5 4c V S 5 7 15 V 5 4c 5a H V S 5 8 16 VI 6a 5b E1 5 10a 18 VI 6a 5b E1 E2 5 10b 19 VI VII 6b 5c E2 5 10c 20 VII 6b 5c E3 5 10d 21 VII 6c 6a E3 E4 5 11a 22 VII 6c 6a E4 5 11b 23 24

    Original URL path: http://www.bluedome.co.uk/Climbing/climgrad.html (2016-02-10)
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  • Bluedome
    more like Frogsmouth i e be careful This combined with the lack of natural protectionand the hard nature of the climbing generally 5c and above means that bolts have been used to protect the hard moves the old bolts have been removed and replaced with 6 bombers However the climbs are not clip ups and can still be serious propositions If in doubt then top rope first Routes 1 Heckle and Jeckyll E3 5c Right hand start 1b driest Use undercut low in back of pod to clip first bolt E2 if bolt on 1c clipped 1c Stone the Crows E4 6b Much harder version of 1 2 Aviary Crack E2 5b Sometimes wet patch but good nuts friends A nice traditional crack 3 Daffy Duck E3 5c An enjoyable sandstone classic Save some bread for the park ducks on the way out 4 Roadrunner E3 E4 6a A sustained and fingery race for the top E3 if move R i e sensibly to clip 2nd bolt Good climb 5 Tweety Pie E4 6a Leaving the sanctuary of Tweety s cage is the psychological crux but hardest move at top bolt 6 Foghorn Leghorn E4 6a Good side pulls on

    Original URL path: http://www.bluedome.co.uk/Climbing/climavia.html (2016-02-10)
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  • Bluedome
    anymore Predictably most of the route names have something to do with an X A larger Blackwell Halt topo Blackwell Halt This is a newly developed Derbyshire Sport crag with a rare commodity in the UK mid grade sport routes The remarkable thing about the crag is that it is in Cheedale a new crag in the hot bed of Derbyshire climbing and you can see it looking left from

    Original URL path: http://www.bluedome.co.uk/Climbing/climblac/climblac.html (2016-02-10)
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