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  • Classic lightweights template
    or less you may find the tail of the cage is too long and will foul the rear mech cable Try to find a mech with shorter cage or re route the cable under the bottom bracket Judging by the number of right hand cranks I see marked by the front cage many cyclist do not set their mechs up correctly Even with cranks such as TA which have a small distance between crank and chain ring it is perfectly possible to set up a front mech with out rubbing You need to avoid using a modern front mech which will usually have a wider cage at the rear than front of course Classic Lightweight readers would never dream of using such a modern mech Peter Brueggeman responded I would add that I sometimes find it useful to slightly bend the front of the inner derailleur cage inboard towards the chain if the chain doesn t pick up and shift quickly enough while upshifting to the large chainring Just a little bit of bending can make quite a difference The set up on the left should make Steve a happy bunny on the right the changer doesn t follow the normal sized ring even though it is positioned by a flat on the shaft of the Simplex rod changer Left is an example of the rear of the Campag cage raised because the rings are smaller than were used when the changer was sold On the right the Simplex cage follows the ring but could do with being lowered On some changers where the arm swings Simplex rod changer for example the cage seems to drop a little so an extra millimeter or so clearance may be needed Front Mech models The classic Campag record design copied by most other

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/front-mechs-restoration.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Hints and tips for classic bike renovation
    get quite sloppy between the hood and the lever due to wear on the pivot First remove the pivot which is a shaft threaded one end and with a screwdriver slot the other Then touch out the holes to 5mm and cut down a SS 5mm bolt so that the smooth part of the shaft acts as a pivot and then cut the thread to the very short length required Next slot the other end to take a screwdriver This will only work if the pivot holes in the lever are in reasonable condition Cotter pins Another tip for removing cotters from a long established local bike shop Undo the securing nut and turn off until it is half on and half off the thread Instead of hitting cotter or nut with a hammer use a sturdy 5mm flat head punch direct on the cotter the punch will be located in place by the proud nut The force created by the hammer then seems to go more directly to the job in hand and the cotter moves with less effort Spokes Do you get fed up with counting spokes in a wheel to decide whether it is 36 or 32 40 hole No need to do it If the pair of spokes opposite a parallel pair are parallel themselves then it is 40 or 32 If the pair of spokes opposite are crossed then you have a 36 Nip out to the shed and see what I mean Brake levers I learned a new trick last week who says you can t teach an old dog I used to spend ages bending down and dashing back and forth when lining up the brake levers from the side Then I saw someone just lay a round tube across the tops of the hoods and then line it up with the tops of the bars as seen from the front You can do the lining up and the tightening in one go I guess that not too many of our readers will be fitting modern bars with grooves for cables However if you are and the bars have twin grooves whilst you only need to use one of them just tape a spare trimmed piece of brake cable into the unused groove Cleaning alloy I recently watched an old cycle tradesman clean up an old stem He gave all the dull and marked surfaces a hard rub with a brass bristled brush similar to ones used to clean suede shoes takes me back to my teens This got into all the awkward corners and crannies He then gave it all a rub with some fine steel wool the result was quite amazing I often use soap impregnated pan cleaners to do the same job as the steel wool However I bought a brush the next day from a shop selling decorating brushes and I use it just about every time I work on a machine Ideal for fiddly bits like brake stirrups

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/hintsandtips.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Hints and tips 2
    Why I wondered do I always get the warped sets It seems that I am not the only one as at the Whitchurch ride lunch stop I heard David Palk explaining to someone how to cure this he remarked that he had to do it with every Chater chainset he fitted To think I always thought that Chater were supposed to be an example of British engineering at its best David explained that the makeshift tool needed is a very large adjustable spanner plus an old toestrap fitted to the jaws to protect the chrome Fit the chainset minus ring to the BB axle in the frame If you have a two arm set then the crank fitting obviously has to be the datum point if not you can choose whichever one of the three arms you think will give you the best chain line David sticks Bluetack on the chainstay as a datum mark He then tweaks the other two arms using the spanner to align them until they line up with the blue tack When satisfied with this he fits the ring and re uses the Bluetack would David do anything else to mark the chainstay distance to the ring which is then tweaked in the same way I had a phone call recently from Peter Nowell of Liverpool and the conversation got round to Chater chainsets and my attempts to make them run true It was pointed out that when cranks are re chromed sometimes the diameter of the axle hole is altered slightly how I wonder and makes for a slightly sloppy fit on the axle When the cotter pin is tightened this causes the chainset to tilt to one side hence to out of true running back to the drawing board then I seem to spend a lot of time juggling with bottom bracket axles I decided to upgrade my Flying Scot which had a single Brampton chainset to a double Stronglight TA cottered set up this has the cranks with the smaller oval logo I have a very crude way of measuring axles from the inner bearing edge to the outside edge of the crank I had a note that the Ephgrave with Durax double chainset was 32 36 Checking the existing axle showed it to be 32 34 so I tried 32 36 This nearly worked except that bolts on the inside of the chainring just caught the chainstay Out with the axle and I eventually found a 34 38 which seemed to do the trick What I can t understand is that when I was building bikes in the 50s there were two axles normal and chaincase clearance and I wonder when all of these variations came into play John Spooner owned a cycle shop and also built his own frames He is a fount of knowledge on all things lightweight He explained that as a general rule BB axle BW Baylis Wiley 14 is for double and BW 15 for single

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/hintsandtips2.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Hints and tips 3
    better that Autosol that I just can t keep it to myself so here it is Use ordinary kitchen foil scrunched up and wetted very important and rub the area to be polished Magic Try it you ll see From Peter Brown I have just been browsing your website hints and tips section and noticed there was a small piece on cotter pin removal I know there are rather expensive specialised tools for this but a Machine Mart car ball joint splitter at just over 8 works reliably with little effort and no damage See http www machinemart co uk shop product details cht222 ball joint remover path automotive hand tools brand clarke The best cleaners I have found are Carplan Tetroclean engine degreaser for removing oil and grease I have various size containers for soaking parts in and after a few days the oil and grease comes off easily with the aid of an old tooth brush Rustins Rust Remover deals with rust easily does not harm chrome leaves no visible residue and requires nothing abrasive Just soak for up to half an hour and wipe with an old rag One of the most useful tools I have which cost me 1 50 from a local shop is a diameter magnet on a telescopic rod It pulls bearings out of bottom brackets and hubs without losing them and retrieves those small parts which always seem to fall and bounce into the most inaccessible places The manufacturers mentioned by Peter Brown are UK companies but I m sure that similar products are available world wide And now a tip from Flash Webmaster of Hetchins site Use white Teflon plumber s tape to wrap the threads on pedals this keeps the axles from siezing in the crank arms and being a dry lubricant does not attract grit This can also be used for wrapping the threads on the rear hub to ease removal of the cog block and bottom bracket cups Roger Langworth sends in two hints 1 Before you cut a brake cable wrap a piece of Teflon tape around the bare cable before you cut it This stops the likelihood of the cable fraying It also works if you have a frayed cable that you have to re use Make sure you wrap the tape in the direction of the cable twist and it neatly pulls the cable together Leave the tape in place until you have threaded it through 2 If like me when you have the bike on a workstand the handlebars always twist at the wrong moment and slam into the frame Take an old inner tube take a piece with the valve still on it at one end and cut a length about a foot long Then with a Stanley knife cut through the tube a slit about 1 2 long a couple of inches from the end You are then able to loop the tube around the front wheel and the frame to keep

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/hintsandtips3.html (2016-02-09)
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  • How to paint a bicycle
    coat of stripper and leave for an hour this coat should be heavier than the first Again an hour or two wait is needed After scraping the loose paint take the wire brush in the drill YOU MUST WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES Beware of flying steel bristles But this method seems to be the best for cleaning paint from around the lugs etc When almost clean sand everywhere with the dry 120 grit paper Clean steel is a beautiful sight Are you having any chrome plating done This is the time to decide If not the frame and fork should be scrubbed with a 3M coarse and a solution of muriatic acid and water about 30 acid must wear rubber gloves and safety glasses Keep all the surfaces wetted for about 5 mins Then dry with lint free rag It should have a brownish cast All the dents can now be filled Deep ones should use the 2 part epoxy in thin build up stages Each application to dry before next coat Sand down with dry 120 grit until flush The lacquer putty is for filling primed surfaces Get ready for paint A 12 long threaded rod with suitable nuts and washers large enough to cover the bottom bracket apertures It should extend 4 either side of the bottom bracket when fitted A similar arrangement should be attached through the head tube These are handles for moving freshly painted frames Also provide suitable hanging locations for wire hangers to locate the frame at a height where all surfaces to be painted can be seen The seat tube can have a rolled thick paper tube pushed in with about four inches exposed After the frame is positioned wipe down with a reducer wetted lint free cloth Allow to dry then a tack rag to remove any dust Take the can of primer and shake for 2 3 mins Continue to shake when between sprays The paint can should be held at least 6 from frame and always keep the paint can in motion to prevent runs The first coat should be fogged on starting in the most difficult locations i e inside the junction of seat tube and seat stays then bottom bracket area Do not be concerned at lack of coverage Spray remainder of frame with fog coat Do fork by holding steerer tube and rotating Wait for 4 5 Mins And apply second coat this time a little fuller following the same area pattern Bursts can be used in the confined areas but along tubes start painting by holding the nozzle open at start and immediately a sweeping motion down the tube releasing the nozzle at end of stroke Wait for 5 mins Check for missed areas and runs Any areas can be filled with the lacquer putty Wait for putty to dry before adding paint to thin areas after sanding runs gently with 120 grit dry The third and final coat should be applied full in the same sequence

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/painting-frames-restoration.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Lug lining
    permanent I ve used Humbrol modellers enamel Too sticky and if thinned is not opaque I ve used cellullose paint from an aerosol sprayed into the lid to form a pool to dip the brush in but it dries too quick I ve tried all the different brushes from waterclour size 000 to riggers and swords Finally I think I have found the solution It all comes down to the Paint It has to be opaque It has to be the consistency to flow without running and it has to stay wet enough to wipe it off or adjust it The paint is Signwriter s paint Very expensive but worth every penny It was a revelation Not only did the paint go where I directed it I was also able to back track stop and start at will even in the middle without spoiling the line You could also easily wipe it off and repaint It was my first success and although not perfect it encourages me to try again I used a brush sorry I did not get on with the rigger it was OK for straight lines but I couldn t handle it on the curves I found

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/lug-lining-rest.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Lug lining and frame decorations
    look much worse than they do to the naked eye I think with images one concentrates purely on the line of paint rather than the overall effect Below left is another example of lug lining on the top of the lug but away from the edge here on a Youngs frame this is slightly easier to do than that on the Pennine but still tricky Next a lug liner s nightmare fine lining around the intricate lugwork incorporating W and B on a Hurlow frame the H of the WBH is cut into the lower head lug Finally right is a Maclean with a contrasting coloured head tube which is so well executed that lining is not needed to camouflage the join between the two paints No not very romantic but this is a camouflage job that lug lining sometimes does I have seen American restorations where the finish around the lug curves and cutouts are exemplary I once read how it was done in an American magazine read in an apartment in Venice The time involved in doing this must make for a very expensive job Below are some examples of top eye decorations some done by restorers rather than on the original builders paintwork Left is an R O Harrison centre is the famous Ephgrave lollipop introduced on the No 1 models from 1953 along with the Spearpoint lugs and sometimes used on Italia both machines shown were restored for us here in the UK Right is a 1954 Mercian with decoration designed around the sculpted features of the seat stay top Mario Vaz The next three are variations on a theme Left is Hetchins own work from the early 70 s centre and right are two more Hetchins again both original Three unusual examples left is a

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/lugline.html (2016-02-09)
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  • A method to choose brake sets and wheel size to fit varying fork lengths
    the distance of wheel rims from wheel axle which are Wheel mm straight mm from rim to axle end inch straight 27 inch 310 320 320 330 12 2 12 6 700c tub 305 313 314 322 12 0 12 3 26 inch 290 300 300 310 11 5 11 9 Calliper brake set block positions shown in the diagram have been characterised as very short short medium or long measured from centre of the calliper anchor bolt to the middle of the brake pad movement The large table which follows the diagram sets out the dimensions of the reach for some commonly used brakes and assigns a reach gategory to each so the restorer can see in the diagram which reach he will need to use on the frame given the fork length and the intended wheels In the diagram the upper and lower extent of possible movement of the brake block on the arm is shown as one oblong shape The diagram above is set out to a correct vertical scale for use with either front or back fork some frames were built with both front and rear forks having the same clearance whilst others had only the rear forks set for full mudguard clearance Very narrow crown forks may of themselves dictate wheel or at least tyre size In the diagram the possible brake pad movement drawn only on the right arm of the fork is shown as an oblong shape to represent the range of vertical movement from the top of the brake pad at its highest position on the calliper leg to the bottom of the pad in its lowest position Wheel rims are drawn somewhat to the left to allow the suitability of wheel and calliper combination in that fork to be judged Nothing can beat actually fitting the components to the frame but this system should allow the restorer to plan what to buy if nothing in the bits locker fit at present Brake analysis Metric Reach Imperial Brake Model Dimensions mm See key Dimensions inches Item A B below A B 1 Unknown Duravia 58 72 l 2 3 2 Bowden Sport Tourisme Narrow 51 63 s 2 2 Bowden Sport Tourisme Wide 56 76 l 2 3 3 GB Standard Hiduminium 50 74 m 2 3 4 GB Coureur 50 63 s 2 2 5 GB Sport 61 78 l 2 3 6 GB Sport Mk3 63 72 l 2 3 7 GB Sprite 47 66 s 2 2â 8 GB Coureur 66 53 70 m 2 2 9 BT Alloy 1940s 58 77 l 2 3 10 CLB ALP Competition 1940s 51 75 m 2 3 11 CLB ALP Highlife 46 67 s 1 2 12 CLB Standard 1980s 50 60 m 2 2 13 CLB Competition 1980s 46 57 s 1 2 14 Universal none 47 66 s 1 2 15 Universal Model 68 51 65 m 2 2 16 Universal Extra 53 70 m 2 2 17 Campagnolo

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/restoration-brakes-alvin.html (2016-02-09)
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