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  • Seatpin removal
    more destructive Firstly I decided that the seat pin could be sacrificed 1 I cut the top off the pin leaving about 1 cm above the seat clip In retrospect about 3 cms would have been wiser 2 I determined that there was an end to the pin and that the seat tube did not need to be filled with any chemical Your situation may be different 3 I made an approximately 4N solution of caustic soda by adding 40 gms of Caustic soda grains Crystals to 250 mls a standard cup of water Important use rubber gloves and a plastic container Do not use glass because the material will ruin the glass and you will have to throw it away Recycle I put the cut off piece of the seat pin in this solution and observed the cutting rate It was about 0 5 mm in 24 hrs 4 I tried a more aggressive solution of about 6N 60 gms in 300 mls of water This was too aggressive it all bubbled and frothed up and chewed away at the seat post at a frightening rate I settled on a 5N solution 200 gms of caustic soda to 1 litre of water Safety Add caustic soda to the water and not the other way around Mind your eyes Wear protective gloves and eyewear 5 I then poured a solution down the hollow seat post and left it Periodically it would froth up to the top of the seat post If it overflows remove the overflow immediately by diluting the overflow with water This stuff make an effective paint stripper 6 Every 24 hrs empty flush and refill What to do with the residue is an environmental hazard problem Diluted it could probably go into the sewer Do not put

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/seatpin-rest.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Repairing a frame with stripped bottom-bracket
    up for sale from time to time They were used in the post war years by builders such as Paris Rensch who built some of their frames with this bottom bracket as standard On welded and bi laminated frames there was no need for the heavy bottom bracket shell as a simple tube could be welded in Reaming the bracket was a pig of a job for although it s easy enough to ream a plain tube a bottom bracket has steps in diameter where the threads are plus the five holes where the frame tubes and chainstays enter There is also the hole for the bottom bracket grease nipple but this is so small as to make little difference The Saxon uses a cast bracket which tapers quite a bit towards the outside so reaming left it very thin at the edges To counter this and increase the strength I turned up two re inforcing rings and brazed them on I built one of the rings with ears which engage with the flats on the fixed cup of the unit bottom bracket The reaming was done with an adjustable reamer used from 1 11 32 to 1 Bottom bracket

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/bb-repair.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Restoring an original classic: Sun Wasp 'Champion du Monde' 1955
    date as December 1955 although I would have sworn it was later probably 1959 due to double changer braze ons etc AND the only Champion Du Monde on his register A copy of the correct catalogue consequently confirmed the componentry and that surprisingly a lot was to order from the customer via the dealer network Indeed braze ons for double changers was very rare for 1955 The most signficant element to this story is the acquisition of the Sun Wasp badged steel stem Image of badge top right After a few months of putting out the word nothing was forthcoming so a wanted advert in News Views only this Summer came up trumps A member in Scotland passed his copy of N V to an ex member neighbour who rang me that night to enquire as to my reason for a Sun stem I explained the purpose and he said he had one and would dig it out of his shed and send it to me FREE so long as it went on the cycle and not for re sale How can you reward such unselfish generosity In this age of commercialism that someone should do such a thing warms the cockles so it does The stem was in as new condition to boot Anyhow the result is what you see here A 1955 unknown heritage Sun Wasp that has been lovingly cared for for 50 years even down to lacquering of the chrome work on the frame It has all original components OR suitable replacements in the Williams double chainset Benelux Mk 7 5 speed front and rear mechs I had to convert a R H front lever to left by filing a caple slot on the other side of the banjo Brooks B15 saddle Stratalite Maes bars GB

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/sun-wasp-rest.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Restoring pedals
    as platers tend to polish threads clean and you can lose thread if you don t do it yourself The next part is to dismantle the cage which is the only way that they can be repolished inside and out I use a Dremel SpeedClic cut off disc as flat as possible to the plate and remove just enough of the burr to be able to prise the plates apart for which I use a modified auto disc brake pad separator Once they are separated I check that they are the correct shape and then remove about 3 file strokes from each shoulder of the tenons in order to replace the metal lost in separation Everything then goes into an ultrasonic cleaner to make sure they are as clean as I can possibly get them before the plates and barrels then go off to the platers for them to polish When they come back it is easy to think that they have already been plated so good is their polishing The assembly needs to be done quite quickly and the assembled cages returned to the platers before any tarnishing occurs First of all check that you have all the plates

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/pedals-rest.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Simplex Tour de France adjustment
    If however adjustment is needed the first thing is to undo the lock nut where the toggle chain emerges from the changer using a 17mm spanner You are now able to wind the changer in or out There is a knurled piece under the locknut and in theory you should be able to use this to turn the threaded tube within the hanger Just think of turning a bolt in and out of of a fixed nut and this is what you are doing but with the changer on the end If it is too stiff to move the knurled piece then there is a flat on the threaded hollow tube which takes a 12mm spanner This is easy if you are are able to do it on the outside of the hanger but to do so on the inside you have to push the spring cover and spring to one side so as to get the spanner in Ideally the correct position will allow you to fasten the lockut abutting the knurled piece so you need at least a couple of threads to do this If it turns out to be as critical as this do not overtighten the locknut as it will strip the few threads you are using With the Tour de France the lever is unusual in that you pull the lever back to drop to the smaller sprockets and you let the spring tension take it to the higher range You may find that you have to set the changer to either the highest or smallest sprocket and then adjust the throw by cable tension This is where the adjuster comes in handy but first you must get the length thereabouts by pulling the cable trough and locking it with the 8mm nut Be prepared to do this several times and remember you need to take the tension off by moving the lever forward before undoing the cable securing nut When you get this far you have to put the chain on and think about applying tension through the pulleys It is common to see Simplex gears with the pulleys upside down All it needs is a little logical thought to get it right One of the side plates has a raised section going higher than the pulley The purpose of this to reinforce the push needed to move the chain to a bigger sprocket With this in mind it is clear that it has to be at the top to nudge the chain up the sprockets In the image above you can see the tension spring nearest engaged in a notch The spring can be moved forward one notch at a time to increase the tension on the chain when it is fitted A snag here is that the circular plate section with the notches is engaged in a peg It is easy to dislodge this when you manouevre the spring As there is only one peg it will move through 360 degrees If

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/simplex_adjustment.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Simplex Tour de France servicing sheets
    Home page Readers bikes Classic components Classic frame builders Classic designs Restoration Classic riders Reminiscences Photo Gallery Ride calendar Links to related sites Simplex Tour de France servicing sheets 2008

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/simplex-instruction.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Sprit-fix transfers - Derek Browne
    restoring a lovely old major Nichols frame I have sourced some original decals from Doug Pinkerton in Redditch These include a pair of Record Road Sprint decals The decals were made by Eagle Transfers Limited and they are of the Kwik fix solvent applied variety Do you know what sort of solvent I require Doug suggested that white spirit would work but someone who claims to have worked at Eagle Transfers indicated that something a bit more specific is required see http www bikeforums net archive index php t 741255 html for more information Do you have any insights or do you have any contacts who might be able to advise I sent him the details with which Derek had explained Peter I have kept asking various people how to apply spirit fix transfers eventually this has payed off Attached are instuctions which were given to an old friend by Johnny Mapplebeck back in the 1950s N B Spirit fix transfers are not to be confused with varnish fix transfers which as their name says are applied with varnish INSTRUCTION FOR FITTING SPIRIT FIX TRANSFERS 1 Ensure that the frame is clean of grease etc 2 Remove the paper backing

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/spirit-fix-browne-rest.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Sturmey Archer gears: Restoration
    81 for the start of the season proper Really fit riders would use 15t 86 4 for 25 and 50 mile events but on the other hand the not so fit would use a 17t 76 2 for events of 100 miles 12 hours or for the masochists 24hours The term what are you on has a different connotation these days but in the 50 s the answer would be something like 64 8 Sorry I have drifted away from Sturmeys here Tourists will tell you that you can always use the 24 gear if it comes to it 24 equals two feet and with two feet you can walk up any hill Racers or pseudo racers like me on the other hand would rather risk a hernia than get off and push Left The writer riding a 1956 Macleans with Sturmey FM gear in the Tin Can Ten a time trial for machines fitted with hub gears only Sturmey Archer FM Several people have told me that they have trouble with the Sturmey Archer FM they cannot get the bottom gear to lock in on steep hills just when you need them of course The secret seems to be to change the normal way into bottom gear keep pulling on the trigger and start pedalling spinning freely is no good some pressure is needed until you feel the trigger go click as it moves in just a little further This seems to do the trick and it should hold now If however the first gear still slips then Bill Ives has sent the following hint I have been reading on the Classic Lightweights web site your bit about the difficulty of getting an SA four speed to go into bottom gear Sometimes even if you can get it in it will jump straight out again I have heard people say they have to hold the trigger to make sure the gear stays in The problem here is that the very high cable tension required means that the pawl which holds the quadrant in place is very likely to jump out and once it has done that a few times it becomes rounded off and so is more likely to jump out and become more worn It s a vicious circle Here s a suggestion to fix it Remove the cable Now take a sharp screwdriver and lever the side of the casing out that s the side that the cable ferrule screws fits into Lever it out just enough to remove the spring which will allow the pawl to pivot out Using a bench grinder square up the end of the pawl Don t let it get too hot or the tempering will be damaged The spring sometimes becomes a somewhat tired so give a little squeeze in the vice to tighten up the bend Reassemble and tap the side back into place with a small hammer and with a bit of luck it will now stay in bottom

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/restoration-sturmey.html (2016-02-09)
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web-archive-uk.com, 2016-10-24