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  • Sturmey-Archer 4-speed maintenance
    impaired by a shabby or badly run cable The inner and outer must be free from kinks and the run of the outer must have no sharp bends A spongy outer will play havoc with gear selection and should be replaced Similarly a frayed inner is neither use nor ornament Good lubrication is important uncouple the inner and pull it through the outer to expose the portion of inner cable which is normally hidden then oil copiously and work the inner through the outer a number of times before reassembly Often overlooked is the pulley over which the inner cable passes ensure that it is free to rotate and give it a spot of oil A bent or twisted toggle chain must be attended to Time spent on these details will not be wasted Correct cable adjustment is vital and the four speed hubs tend to require more frequent attention in this respect With the trigger in No 3 N position the scribed line on the indicator rod should coincide with the left end of the axle Moving the trigger into No 2 L position should cause the end of the indicator rod to be flush with the end of the axle A little rotation of the pedals will help to engage the mechanism fully during this operation Note that there are two axle lengths for these hubs therefore two lengths of left side indicator rod Secondhand hubs are sometimes fitted with the wrong one The two piece indicator assembly has a tendency to come unscrewed and should be checked regularly The threaded portion is very slender and must be treated with respect Beware overtightening will cause breakage rendering both rods unserviceable With all four speed hubs there is a possibility of the indicator assembly coming apart often initiated by a partial unscrewing The considerable pressure placed on the operating system when changing into the lowest gear is certainly a contributing factor A sudden problem with gear selection is often a sign of the rods coming undone and should be looked into without delay Internal spring pressure will cause the left side indicator rod to shoot into the hedgerow like an arrow and from personal experience I can assure readers that they are not the easiest things to find If it can be recovered it may not be any use trying to screw it back together as its threads are likely to be be ruined likewise those of the mating part It may however be of some use in getting the machine home see figure 4 below If the rods do part company these four speed hubs settle into a neutral position owing to the compensating spring becoming unleashed fig 3 and unless some action is taken the hapless cyclist is faced with a walk home To deal with this situation I have devised a small two piece kit to fix the hub into gear and make the machine rideable The kit has the advantages of being easily portable quick

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/sa-maintenance-blakeley-rest.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Transfer making
    the transfer paper and put two thin coats of clear lacquer on the coated side Take a piece of ordinary paper and print the image A laser printer is the best for this If the image is satisfactory cut a section from the transfer paper about 2 wider and 2 longer than the image Tape this coated side up with clear tape over the image on the plain paper No tape should cover where the image will be printed Put the sample back in the printer in the same orientation as previous Reprint If more are required duplicate the previous steps I usually put a thin coat of clear lacquer to set the image If the computer or printer is not available you must have a tracing available to put the image on the transfer paper If the image transferred is in pencil it must be gone over in India ink A light lacquer coat can be sprayed over the images Before doing this run a test strip of the transfer paper with a couple of India ink lines drawn and dried Remember the image should be in reverse An alternate method would be to copy an India inked tracing onto the transfer paper via a copy machine Reversed of course A light lacquer coating will fix the image Now for painting Do the lettering and any outlining first Stay within the lines The background colour can be applied in relative abandon after all the detailing is dry as it will be behind the lettering If there is a metallic gold or silver it is better to coat the painted area with a water borne varnish with a brush This prevents the next coat of gold size from attacking the medium holding the metallics After all is dry cut the

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/transfer-making-restoration.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Making transfers
    the artwork from photographs or copy directly from originals as well as carry out short printing runs Clearly the time on the artwork carries the greatest cost the printing itself on very thin self adhesive vinyl carried very little of the overall expense Therefore I accepted these costs and had a number of transfers produced for marques such as George Brooks Grandini and three versions of designs for Youngs bicycles I was delighted with the results especially the fact that the finished product was cut right to the edges of the designs and individual letters of any name A simple cover sheet enabled these to be kept in place and accurately applied after the removal of the backing sheet In turn these could be varnished over at the enamellers but could be applied retrospectively without a varnish as the adhesive is very secure Perhaps the only downside was that this firm were not able to produce proper gold but this is not always a real problem Replacement vinyl Grandini transfers attached after carefully removing the shattered originals The head and seat ones were left untouched as they were in good condition The sign writing firm in question was fine to use when I was in regular employment but after retirement it was not viable being too far away from my home With yet another obscure marque ready to be restored in this case a Special CNC I set about finding a similar type of firm locally This was much easier than I imagined and I took along a poor photo of an original decal of the right period downloaded from E Bay for them to copy This new firm s attitude was different in that they were happy to produce as many or few as I wanted although the artwork

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/transfers-clarke-restoration.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Wheels for 1945-60s classic lightweights
    speed frame C Choice of hubs Whilst there were many hubs available in times gone by some were fairly obscure Powells Shellwins Coventry Ultralite etc and some imported ones aren t easy to find i e Simplex This is what you are likely to find 1 Airlite Introduced in the mid 1930 s and the mainstay of the lightweight scene 2 Postwar the large flange Airlite Continental was very popular Most suitable for 1945 1965 era 3 Bayliss Wiley in both large and small flange look very similar to Airlites 1945 1960 4 Hardens Most are drilled large flange with annular bearings Available variations are a rarer small flange version un drilled large flange now known as Bacon Slicers most of these are single fixed but a rarer gear sided only also turns up sometimes Also the Harden Flyweight large flange only and with cup and cone bearings These later are surprisingly available in two distinctive versions 1946 1956 5 Blumfields An alloy hub available in large and small flange Have grease nipple in the centre of the barrel and quite attractive engraved makers marks 1946 1959 6 FB and Gnutti almost identical small flange imported Italian hubs turn up the large flange version is much rarer Chrome barrel and alloy flanges I can t help wondering if Airlites are copies of the FB as this hub as this too was freely available before 1946 1965 7 Campag Gran Sport Very similar to both of the above were they all made by FB in the beginning surely someone must know More easily available in both small and large flange 1955 1962 Note Of these hubs you have a better chance of finding Airlites and Campag in QR versions the latter quite easily Also as more good English fixed hubs turn up than gear versions remember that it is possible to convert fixed to gears but that it is more cost effective to do two or three of them at the same time D Choice of rims 1 Dunlop Special Lightweight The most common sporting rim of the sporting cyclists Chrome plated steel and prone to rust Warning whilst re plating is possible acids tend to get trapped within the voids and rust re appears too soon should you be thinking of going this route why not keep the original rust instead of having later non period rust 1945 1965 2 Dunlop Stainless Special Lightweight As above but rarer the 40h rear is prone to cracking around the spoke holes check carefully 1946 1955 3 Dunlop alloy turn up occasionally and look very attractive BEWARE There is a very shallow well in these rims and getting a tyre on even a Dunlop can be difficult Getting one off after a puncture on a ride can be a nightmare I know it has happened to me 1946 1955 4 Weinmann Alesa The most easy and economical option Early ones from the early 1950 s have different engraved markings and no dimples around

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/wheels-avt.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Gameson Cycles Catalogue
    Links to related sites Gameson Cycles Ltd Peter Underwood This catalogue was issued by Gameson Cycles Ltd for the season 1951 52 It consisted of one and a half page duplicated foolscap sheets detailing five models plus a covering letter The first page has been divided into two to improve reproduction One of the models RWB is repeated on both halves to balance size There are no images but the

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/catalogues/gameson-catalogue.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Bates Cycles 2: Cantiflex frame tubes
    its greatest Also by specifying double butted tubing where wall thickness is less in the centre of each tube length and thicker at each end there would be virtually no weight penalty for these stiffer tubes while the thicker ends would remain strong at the point where thickness is vital to create a strong joint Rosette for Bates Cantiflex frames Here is the description from the Bates brochure of 1939 The inside and outside diameters of the tube are larger towards the centre while the thickness of the metal is increased at each end By increasing the diameter of the tube where the greatest bending strain occurs extreme rigidity results and light gauge material may be used and by increasing that gauge strength is added at the points where the breaking load is greatest thus CANTIFLEX tubes are lighter stronger and more rigid They prevent whip ensuring that ALL energy is transmitted into drive A stronger and stiffer frame with no weight penalty was the holy grail of all frame builders Horace Bates had discovered it and claimed it as his own Indeed much was made from the perception that to ride a Cantiflex framed Bates would make you a faster rider Bates is the fastest and only really rigid handbuilt stated the brochure Few would have argued otherwise Actually the design appears to have been tried a few years earlier by another London frame maker Notwithstanding this Horace Bates was able to patent and register the design Clearly he knew a good thing when he saw it and also had the vision to put it to good use The next step was to commission Reynolds to produce a batch of frame tubes to this specification in their highest grade double butted 531 steel alloy material With this achieved and

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/builders/bates2.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Bates Cycles 3
    the norm Finalising a design that could be registered proved easier said than done The initial design which was advertised as the Diadrant fork in Cycling of December 1935 was in fact quite different to the type we know now and was changed apparently because the early prototype fell foul of existing patents held by Dunelt This design had each blade going downwards as normal but then curved backwards before curving forwards again This would have provided a higher degree of flex By the time the first production Diadrant fork arrived it looked a very different animal This time the fork extended downwards in the usual manner but then curved forwards and then down again forming a distinctive double curvature in the lower section Special rosette for Diadrant forks In fact West London cycle makers Dayton had used a similar design approach but with wider radius curves and this may have led to difficulties in registering the design This was achieved however and Bates found themselves with the Diadrant front fork The new design had the added bonus of making a Bates machine instantly recognisable even at a distance or from pictures in the cycling press This was a vital point for marketing in an age where brand advertising on racing cyclists clothing was banned by the organising body So does the Diadrant fork actually offer any genuine benefit over a conventional front fork Maybe Some Pinarello machines employ a similar double curve design for the front forks used for their top end models Here the material is carbon fibre rather than steel but the principle is the same The computer boffins at Pinarello claim that in computer simulations the double curve design provides ten per cent greater absorption in a vertical plane but with a five per cent higher

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/builders/bates3.html (2016-02-09)
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  • Bates Cycles 4
    skilled frame builder at Bates was HR Morris who later went on to build highly regarded frames under his own name The catalogue for 1939 shows six different models plus the Grangewood tandem All used Cantiflex tubing except for the New Club model which used normal section Reynolds tubes and all were available either as framesets or as complete machines By this time the B A R model had been introduced as the top road model reflecting the achievements on Bates frames in the Best All Rounder series This was a prestigious title based on a combination of distance and time trial events The B A R was described simply as the best bike you can get and it featured custom frame measurements usually with 40 1 2 inch wheelbase and a flam or standard enamel finish with chrome ends and a chrome head and fork crown or to customers choice A look at the specification of the top flite B A R road model gives us an insight into what the well heeled road man of the day would have used in the late 1930s The frame was of course Reynolds 531 throughout and it came with a Williams C1000 chainset with hidden cotters if desired Simplex Professional or Cyclo derailleur Brooks B17 or Mansfield RR56 alloy frame saddle Airlite small flange hubs with alloy wingnuts and Constrictor sprint rims or Sieber Star wood rims wearing Dunlop tubs It would have cantilever Resilion or Sieber alloy brakes Rosalloy Boa or Webb pedals Bars and stem to choice Despite being an out and out racing machine this model came with Bluemel s Noweight mudguards The B A R cost just under 15 and weighed 22lbs with gears As a frameset complete with chainset and seatpin it cost 8 10s The B A R was also available with the Sturmey Archer AR hub gear as used on the Lands End John o Groats record breaker A fixed wheel pre war BAR with Chater Lea chainset The Vegrandis model was built to a similarly high spec except that this came with a single gear and had Dunlop Special Lightweight steel rims with British Hub Co Solite hubs and Dunlop Sprite or High Pressure tyres The heavier wheels no doubt accounted for the higher weight of 23 lbs but the cost was considerably less at 10 7 6 This model or the cheaper and less well equipped Ideal would have been more typical of the quality clubmens machines of the day while the New Club model filled the niche for the less well off rider This did not use Cantiflex frame tubes but it did have Diadrant forks It was more of a tourer with its longer 42in wheelbase and heftier weight of 26 lbs Also featured in the 1939 catalogue was the Volante track machine This was always built to a rider s individual spec and the quoted weight was from 15lb according to specification Rudi Alt three times Swiss champion is

    Original URL path: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/builders/bates4.html (2016-02-09)
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