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  • How to hem a carpet | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    corner through the two thicknesses working the very end stitches twice through the same hole to make sure that the bare canvas is properly covered If as you approach the corner you have less than 8 inches of wool left in the needle finish off and start a new length now as starting a new length just as you are stitching around the corner is tricky How to hem two sides in order to prepare a miniature rectangular carpet for adding a fringe If you choose to add a fringe to your rectangular miniature carpet you will trim the canvas to half an inch all round as described above but then you only need to hem the two long sides In the process of hemming these two long sides of your carpet you will need to fold in and catch down the adjacent short sides unworked border in the first few and last few stitches that you make so that the two short sides have their unworked canvas held down securely at each end To do this you need to start at the extreme right hand end of a long side with the right side of the stitching facing you Fold under the unworked border of the long side first away from you and then the unworked border of the short side this is the side that you not going to hem now but which will have the fringe on later With your first few stitches catch down both layers As you reach the other end of the long side with your hemming stitches do the same again and catch in the other short side s unworked border At both ends of your line of oversewing work two stitches through the final hole to ensure that the final canvas corner is properly covered over with the wool You do not hem the edge that you will be working fringing stitch along When the two long sides have been hemmed and the two short sides are ready for you to work fringing stitch along your carpet should look like this Tutorial How to add a fringe to your doll s house carpet How to hem irregularly shaped doll s house needlepoint carpets Round and irregularly shaped carpets cannot be hemmed in the way outlined above because the edge of the needlepoint stitching does not run evenly along a row of holes To finish these then trim the canvas as usual to about half an inch all round Spread fabric glue over all the unworked canvas and allow to dry thoroughly to prevent fraying Then referring to the diagram at right snip the bare canvas up to the stitching at intervals of about half an inch around concave curves and cut V shapes out along convex ones Dab fabric glue along the cuts again if necessary to prevent unravelling and leave to dry thoroughly Fold each tab to the reverse side leaving no bare canvas showing from the front or edge Run

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/how-to-hem-a-carpet/ (2016-04-28)
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  • How to add a fringe | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    every inch of fringing or one metre for every 2 5cm so generous amounts are included in each kit Cotton being thinner than wool gives a flatter more realistic look to the fringe Fringing stitch is similar to a cross stitch with a loop included It looks more complicated than it actually is so it is definitely worth having a go Follow the photos here to see what you need to do Start by threading your needle with about three feet of fringing thread Secure the end by knotting it and running the needle through a few stitches on the back of the main carpet design Hold the canvas with the main stitched area facing upward the unworked border of canvas folded under and secured in place by the hemming stitches on the two long sides and the row of holes that you are going to work the loops along held horizontally in front of you Bring the needle up ready to work the first stitch in the second to last hole from the left hand edge The FIRST hole along this edge should already have a wool overcast stitch in it completing the adjacent side of the carpet s hem Remember that for all the fringing stitches you will be working through TWO LAYERS of canvas but as the holes should be aligned in pairs they will be referred to here as if they were one layer Pull the thread all the way through Take the needle down though the third hole from the left hand edge but this time leave a loop about half an inch long this size is not crucial as you will later trim the loops to equal lengths of fringe If you place a lollipop stick or a pencil in the loops as you make them they will all be roughly the same size when completed To hold this loop securely take the thread from right to left behind the loop you ve just made and then take the needle down through the first hole from the left hand edge Slowly pull the thread through until it lies flat and taut making a long slanting stitch which traps the loop in place It may help as you are pulling the thread through to lay the loop down facing forwards towards you and tease the slanting stitch into position with the first finger of your left hand Bring the needle up again in the third hole from the left hand edge this hole already has a stitch in it ready to make the next stitch Continue in this manner along the whole length It is quite rhythmical once you get the hang of it Think of the needle movement as up down leaving a loop DOWN it s the third movement the laying of the long slanting stitch to the left that holds the loop in place that tends to catch people out Prepare to cut the loops when the whole length is finished by

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/how-to-add-a-fringe/ (2016-04-28)
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  • Make a Xmas stocking | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    start the design in the centre Remember that one square on the chart equals one stitch and always use a stabbing motion not a sewing one Rayon silk comes as 6 strand lengths Use one of these strands in the needle Rayon silk can be bouncy To make it more manageable dampen each strand just before threading your needle by having a piece of damp cotton wool to hand and running each separate strand across it just before starting to stitch and it will be much easier to stitch with Begin each length by knotting one end taking the needle from the front to the back about half an inch away from where you intend to start stitching This is called the waste knot method and is described in more detail HERE Stitch towards the knot securing the underlying thread as you go Snip the knot off carefully when you reach it Finish each length by running the needle under a few threads on the back When the stitching is complete remove it from the card mount and press it if necessary using a dry iron pulling the fabric gently if necessary to get it dead square How do I assemble the stocking Trim the gauze to a quarter of an inch all round the stitching Cut the unworked gauze at intervals of about a quarter of an inch around the curved edges of the stocking being careful not to cut into the stitching itself then fold the unworked gauze to the back all the way around the stocking creasing it with your nail to get a sharp edge and making sure no unworked gauze is showing Cutting the gauze at intervals makes it easy to get the gauze to lie flat when folded under Cut out the card template provided exactly on the line not outside it Temporarily stick it to the smooth side of the ultrasuede fabric with the toe of the template facing to the left using Pritt Stick or a similar gluestick Draw carefully around the shape onto the fabric with a sharp pencil Unpeel the card template and discard it then cut around the pencilled shape using sharp scissors If you plan to hang up the stocking when it is finished at a fireplace or bed end for instance make a small loop for this purpose now by taking a single strand of the Rayon silk in a colour which co ordinates with the design you have stitched not necessarily a colour that co ordinates with the colour of the ultrasuede as the ultrasuede will hardly be seen on the finished stocking threading a sharp sewing needle not supplied and making a good double knot in the end of the thread Starting with the knot on the smooth side of the ultrasuede that is the side that will be the inside of the stocking when it is finished make a loop stitch about 1 8 in and 1 8 down from the side and top

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-xmas-stocking/ (2016-04-28)
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  • Make a Xmas tree mat | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    to count the design from a suitable needle Anchor stranded cotton use one strand and full instructions This tutorial features the Snowy Village doll s house Christmas tree mat design but there are several other designs to choose from in our ONLINE SHOP If you have never done miniature needlepoint before start by reading the BASIC EQUIPMENT and NEEDLEPOINT STITCHES tutorials first then come back to this page Before you begin stitching you will need to make a card mount for the silk gauze This will make it much easier to work on and help to keep your stitch tension even Cut a piece of stiff card 8 ½ x 8 ½ inches with an aperture of 6 ½ x 6 ½ inches Fix the silk gauze to the card with masking tape along all four edges as tautly as possible See the HOW TO MOUNT SILK GAUZE tutorial for details Identify the thread colours supplied in the kit using the colour key then using one strand of the Anchor stranded cotton start the design in the centre using tent stitch Remember that one square on the chart equals one stitch and always use a stabbing motion not a sewing scooping one When the stitching is complete if it has become slightly mis shapen especially if you did not use a card mount to hold the silk gauze taut press it on the reverse side with a medium hot iron over a padded ironing board pulling the fabric gently if necessary to get it dead square Hold the gauze piece face down and run a line of fabric glue such as Fray Check around the edge of the stitching about a quarter of an inch wide Wait for the glue to dry completely then with a pair of sharp scissors

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-xmas-tree-mat/ (2016-04-28)
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  • Make a clutch bag | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    have not done these stitches before they are very simple to do Mount the silk gauze into a card mount as described in the SILK GAUZE Tutorial This will make it much easier to work stitches with an even tension and also makes your miniature stitching quicker to do Start stitching from the centre of the design as described in the tutorial NEEDLEPOINT STITCHES mentioned above working outwards When all the detail is complete fill in the background When all the stitching is complete trim the unworked gauze to a quarter of an inch all round Establish where the two folds on the bag will come to define the front back and front flap by referring to the photo on the front of the kit Then very carefully trim the gauze again but only along the inner opening edge of the bag and around the flap right up to the stitching using sharp scissors Trim the remaining quarter inch seam allowances by angling them slightly at the edges to reduce bulk Fold back the quarter inch seam allowance of the bag sides making sure that the fold lies right along the centre of the outermost row of stitches so that no bare silk gauze is left showing from the front Finger press the fold to set the crease Take 12 inches of one strand of leftover stranded cotton in the same shade as the outermost row of stitches of the bag Knot the end and make two back stitches in the seam allowance towards the bottom corner of the back of the bag Fold the stitching so that the front and back of the bag are wrong sides together and overcast the edges stitching into every one or two holes of the gauze Pull each stitch quite tightly Around curved edges ease the seam allowance into place as you stitch End each length by making a couple of tiny backstitches in the seam area If you want the look of a full bag take some of the leftover stranded cotton three or four feet of any colour will do roll it into small balls and use it to lightly stuff the bag using a pencil to push it in Fold the flap over the front of the bag and crease the top edge with your fingernail To hold the flap in place take a length of leftover stranded cotton in the same shade as the background of the bag and make a couple of backstitches on the back of the bag in doing this you need to secure the length of thread by putting the needle in and pulling it out about half an inch away pulling the strand though just enough to make the loose end disappear inside the bag Then restitching exactly over a couple of stitches in the same colour which have already been worked make the two backstitches Then poke your needle from the back to the front of the bag coming up at an angle

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-clutch-bag/ (2016-04-28)
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  • Make a cushion | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    page Identify the thread colours supplied in the kit using the colour key then using tent stitch and two strands of the Anchor stranded cotton start the design in the centre As these kits are quick to do and the canvas is quite sturdy you do not need to use any kind of frame when stitching them Remember that one square on the chart equals one stitch and always use a stabbing motion not a sewing scooping one When the stitching is complete if it has become slightly mis shapen press it on the reverse side with a medium hot iron on a padded ironing board pulling the fabric gently if necessary to get it dead square Trim the spare canvas around the stitching to half an inch all round Place the stitching and the backing fabric right sides together Thread a sewing needle with about two feet of strong sewing cotton in a similar shade to the background colour of the cushion NB For clarity I have used a contrasting thread shade in the photos Starting at a corner of what will be the bottom edge of the cushion when finished if the design has an up and a down some do some don t secure the sewing cotton firmly by backstitching through the reverse of some of the tent stitches already worked being careful that your backstitches don t go through and show on the front Then pass the needle right to the corner of the stitched area and begin backstitching through the outermost row of holes that you previously used for the tent stitches of the design Make one stitch into every hole so that the row of stitches is strong When you reach a corner work one or two stitches before and after the corner twice into the same holes for extra strength It is important that you bring the needle out BETWEEN the two layers as you finish the final backstitch on the third side so that the thread will be on the outside of the cushion once it is turned right side out LEAVE THE LENGTH OF THREAD ATTACHED while you do this next stage When you have completed all three sides of backstitching carefully trim the canvas and fabric backing neatly to barely a quarter of an inch along the three sides that you have stitched Widen the seam allowances at the ends a little where they meet the seam allowance of the open side see picture Along the final open side trim the canvas and fabric to about three eighths of an inch Trim across the two bottom corners to lessen bulk as shown in the picture Turn the cushion right side out Rub the seams between your finger and thumb to get the seam to settle flat To get the corners turned properly it may be necessary to push a blunt pencil carefully into the corners Using the wadding included in the kit pull off small pieces and stuff the cushion

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-cushion/ (2016-04-28)
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  • Make a dining chair | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    side chair or carver chair If you have never done miniature needlepoint before start by reading the BASIC EQUIPMENT and NEEDLEPOINT STITCHES tutorials first then come back to this page Before you begin stitching you will need to make a card mount for the silk gauze This will make it much easier to work on and help to keep your stitch tension even Cut a piece of stiff card 3¾ x 3¾ inches with an aperture of 2½ x 2½ inches Fix the silk gauze to the card with masking tape along all four edges as tautly as possible See the HOW TO MOUNT SILK GAUZE tutorial for details Identify the thread colours supplied in the kit using the colour key then using tent stitch and one strand of the Anchor stranded cotton start the design in the centre Remember that one square on the chart equals one stitch and always use a stabbing motion not a sewing scooping one When the stitching is complete if it has become slightly mis shapen especially if you did not use a card mount to hold the silk gauze taut press it on the reverse side with a medium hot iron with steam over a padded ironing board pulling the fabric gently if necessary to get it dead square Preparation for mounting the stitching Trim the finished stitching so that there is a margin of half an inch of unworked gauze on each side It is NOT necessary or desirable to use a fabric glue around the edges first With a pencil lightly mark the centre points along each of the four sides in the unworked border on both sides of the gauze Mark the centre lines in pencil on the card then carefully glue the backing card to the foam using white tacky glue These lines will make it much easier to position your stitching centrally on the foam pad Mounting the stitching on the foam pad Using white tacky glue spread a line about three eighths of an inch wide along the front longest edge of the card backing board not the foam or the gauze Leave the glue to dry off for a few moments then place the foam pad centrally onto the back of your stitching card side up using the pencilled guidelines to ensure that it is lined up Wrap the gauze around the foam pad and press the gauze into place onto the card Briefly turn the pad over to make sure that the design is centrally positioned then leave the glue to dry completely Repeat this gluing and wrapping process with the back shorter edge Do not rush this stage Next trim the spare gauze which overhangs the slanting sides cutting off a piece a quarter of an inch by the depth of the overhang This will reduce bulk Crease the gauze ready to fold it up over the backing board as you would when wrapping a parcel Spread glue along one of the slanting side

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-dining-chair/ (2016-04-28)
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  • Make a firescreen | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    EQUIPMENT and NEEDLEPOINT STITCHES tutorials first then come back to this page Before you begin stitching you will need to make a card mount for the silk gauze This will make it much easier to work on and help to keep your stitch tension even Cut a piece of stiff card 4 x 3 inches with an aperture of 2½ x 1¾ inches Fix the silk gauze to the card with masking tape along all four edges as tautly as possible See the HOW TO MOUNT SILK GAUZE tutorial for details Identify the thread colours supplied in the kit using the colour key and use tent stitch for the detail and basketweave stitch for the background Start the design in the centre Remember that one square on the chart equals one stitch and always use a stabbing motion not a sewing one Stranded cotton comes as 6 strand lengths use one of these strands in the needle and begin each length by knotting one end taking the needle from the front to the back about half an inch away from where you intend to start stitching When the stitching is complete if it has become slightly mis shapen especially if you did not use a card mount to hold the silk gauze taut press it on the reverse side with a medium hot iron with steam over a padded ironing board pulling the fabric gently if necessary to get it dead square Preparing the stitching for mounting in the metal frame Trim the gauze right up to the outermost line of stitches so that no unworked gauze is left Take care not to cut into any stitches as you cut away the gauze DO NOT use a fabric glue first as this may stain the stitching Assembling the metal firescreen Trim off any flashing with a metal file if necessary Using a suitable adhesive such as Araldite carefully apply glue to the four locating lugs on the sides of the frame and fix the two legs into position to make the screen complete Wipe off any excess glue before it dries and leave the firescreen upright to set making sure that the feet are aligned correctly perpendicular to the frame Putting a couple of elastic bands around the frame will help to keep it aligned while the glue sets When the glue has set completely paint the screen with one coat of Humbrol metal primer then with a coat of either Humbrol gloss or matt enamel the colour used for each kit is given in the Notes section below the colour key but you can of course choose any colour For this Alice blue design I used Humbrol Deep blue gloss number 15 Assembling the stitching in the firescreen Cut two pieces of thin card exactly 38 x 46 mm Place the stitching in the frame then loosely back it with one piece of card Take a piece of masking tape about three inches long and cut it longways into

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-firescreen/ (2016-04-28)
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