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  • Make a footstool | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    the stitching kit There are many designs to choose from most co ordinate with carpets bellpulls or cushions too if you like the matching look To start with identify the thread colours using the colour key Using tent stitch as indicated on the diagram start the design in the centre Remember that one square on the chart equals one stitch and always use a stabbing motion not a sewing one See the NEEDLEPOINT STITCHES and COUNTING FROM A COLOUR BLOCK CHART tutorials if you are new to miniature needlepoint Using one strand of thread in the needle begin each length by knotting one end and taking the needle from the front to the back of the evenweave fabric about half an inch away from where you intend to start stitching Stitch towards the knot securing the underlying thread as you go Snip the knot off when you reach it Finish each length by running the needle under a few threads on the back When the stitching is complete press it face down over a soft pad such as a towel using an iron on cool setting pulling the fabric gently if necessary to get it dead square Trim the stitched fabric to two inches 5 cm diameter Centre the fabric on the mount Carefully fold the fabric to the back first in one direction then at right angles to the first folds Finally fold the remaining fabric back easing out the fullness as you go Make sure the fabric is tight on the mount and centred Press the back plate down hard to fix the fabric in position To complete the stool first lightly sand the mahogany pieces Then using wood glue fix the bun feet into position Polish the stool with wax polish applied with wire wool and buff

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-footstool/ (2016-04-28)
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  • Make a handbag | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    One large piece of silk gauze is included in the kit Make sure that you leave a gap of unworked silk gauze of at least half an inch between the two panels when stitching the designs to allow for a seam allowance on each panel when making up When all the stitching is complete trim the unworked gauze around each panel to a quarter of an inch all the way round Fold back the quarter inch seam allowance of bare gauze around each panel of the handbag making sure that the fold lies right along the centre of the outermost row of stitches so that no bare silk gauze is left showing from the front Finger press the fold to set the crease Attach the gold thread for the handle before stitching the two panels together To do this thread the fine gold thread onto the tapestry needle and knot the thread end You may need to dampen the thread first to remove any kinks On the back panel of the bag secure the gold thread by taking a couple of back stitches through the reverse of some of the needlepoint already worked do this in roughly the centre of the bag Then referring to the photo on the front of the packet for placement and length pass the needle up through the very edge of the seam allowance about four holes in from the top corner of the handbag Leave a thread loop then pass the needle down on the opposite side Secure the thread end close to where you started Take a length of leftover stranded cotton about 12 inches long in the same shade as the background of the handbag so that the stitches will blend in as much as possible Using a single strand secure the length by knotting the cotton and making two back stitches in the seam allowance towards the bottom corner of one of the panels Place the two panels wrong sides together and start to overcast the edges as illustrated below and right making a stitch into every one or two holes of the gauze Pull each stitch quite tightly as you finish making it Work slowly around curved edges easing the seam allowance in place as you stitch making sure no bare gauze is left showing and stitching through the outermost row of stitches each time As you come to the top edge of the handbag make sure to hold the handle made from the gold thread out of the way and continue stitching the two panels together When you reach the bottom corner of the bag stop stitching but do not fasten off your thread yet Take some of the leftover thread from stitching the needlepoint three or four feet of any colour thread will do roll it into small balls about a foot long each time and use it to lightly stuff the bag using a pencil to push it in Then continue stitching the two panels together Finish

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-handbag/ (2016-04-28)
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  • Make a needlework stand | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    to start stitching Stitch towards the knot securing the underlying thread as you go Snip the knot off when you reach it Finish each length by running the needle under a few threads on the back When the stitching is complete press it face down over a soft pad such as a towel using an iron on medium setting pulling the fabric gently if necessary to get it dead square Making sure the design is centred trim the stitched fabric to one and five eighths of an inch wide 4 3 cm Then trim the height to two and seven eighths of an inch 7cm Put the stitching aside for now NB You do not need to use a fabric glue such as Fray Check with this kit To complete the mahogany needlework stand first lightly sand the mahogany pieces Do a dry run assembly first to make sure you know how all the pieces fit together before using PVA glue Gently round off the base of each of the upright legs slightly to allow a good fit into the notch in each foot as the notches that they will fit into have a slight curve at the corners Glue the two crossbars into the location holes in the upright legs Glue the legs into the notch in the feet and make sure that the frame is standing straight Allow the glue to dry thoroughly Temporarily assemble the square frame that the stitching will fit into using the frame sides and the white wood poles Test fit using the brass pins to hold the frame in place to make sure that the frame fits between the upright legs sand off some of the pole length if necessary DO NOT GLUE YET Separate the frame side and pole part for now Now carefully wax polish the frame uprights feet and cross bar structure and the frame sides only THAT IS DO NOT WAX POLISH THE WHITE WOOD POLES Apply the wax polish with wire wool and buff to a shine with a soft cloth Two coats will give a good colour A Mahogany Wax Wood Finishing Pack is available separately if required See the separate Tutorial for how to use our Mahogany Wax Wood Finishing Packs Re assemble the square frame once the sides have been wax polished this time gluing the pieces in place Wait until the glue has completely dried before attempting to mount the stitching in the frame Take the piece of stitching and using a small sewing needle and cream sewing cotton not supplied wrap three eighths of an inch of the bare gauze around one of the white wood poles Make sure that the design is centred on the frame Line up the gauze so that you can stitch straight through both layers evenly along the length as close to the pole as possible using back stitch over two or three threads each time Beginning about three eighths of an inch 1cm from the edge of

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-needlework-stand/ (2016-04-28)
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  • Make a placemat | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    silk gauze each kit contains a colour block chart to count the design from a suitable needle Anchor stranded cotton use one strand and full instructions This tutorial features the Christmas Candles doll s house placemat design which can be seen in our ONLINE SHOP If you have never done miniature needlepoint before start by reading the BASIC EQUIPMENT and NEEDLEPOINT STITCHES tutorials first then come back to this page Before you begin stitching you will need to make a card mount for the silk gauze This will make it much easier to work on and help to keep your stitch tension even Cut a piece of stiff card 3½ x 2¾ inches with an aperture of 2½ x 1¾ inches Fix the silk gauze to the card with masking tape along all four edges as tautly as possible See the HOW TO MOUNT SILK GAUZE tutorial for details Identify the thread colours supplied in the kit using the colour key then using one strand of the Anchor stranded cotton start the design in the centre using tent stitch Remember that one square on the chart equals one stitch and always use a stabbing motion not a sewing scooping one When the stitching is complete if it has become slightly mis shapen especially if you did not use a card mount to hold the silk gauze taut press it on the reverse side with a medium hot iron over a padded ironing board pulling the fabric gently if necessary to get it dead square Hold the gauze piece face down and run a line of fabric glue such as Fray Check around the edge of the stitching about a quarter of an inch wide Wait for the glue to dry completely then with a pair of sharp scissors carefully cut

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-placemat/ (2016-04-28)
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  • Make a pole screen | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    equals one stitch and always use a stabbing motion not a sewing one Using one strand of thread in the needle begin each length by knotting one end and taking the needle from the front to the back of the silk gauze about half an inch away from where you intend to start stitching Stitch towards the knot securing the underlying thread as you go Snip the knot off when you reach it Finish each length by running the needle under a few threads on the back When the stitching is complete press it face down over a soft pad such as a towel using an iron on medium setting pulling the fabric gently if necessary to get it dead square Trim the unused silk gauze off right up to the stitching and put the stitching to one side for now while you assemble the pole screen Do a dry run assembly first to make sure you know how all the pieces fit together before using wood glue The components for the pole screen look like this The three legs of the pole screen need to be shaped a little so that the legs and feet are slightly rounded this is best achieved with coarse sandpaper Do not round off the upper end of the leg the part that fits into the notches on the turned central base Then sand all the components with fine sand paper until they are very smooth Glue the three legs in place on the turned central base using wood glue I found that it helps to also glue the long pole in position at the same time so that you can check that the feet are positioned properly and that the central turned base will hold the pole absolutely vertical Leave to dry thoroughly Dry fit the small frame holding lug on to the backplate Holding it in position slide the pole under the lug If the frame slides too far down the pole sand a little off the lug to make the depth of the inner curve shallower and the fit therefore tighter Then glue it into position on the backplate Apply the wax polish to all the pole screen parts with fine wire wool and buff to a shine with a soft cloth Two coats will give a good depth of colour A Mahogany Wax Wood Finishing Kit is available separately if required See the separate Tutorial for how to use our Mahogany Wax Wood Finishing Kits The backplate has a piece of double sided tape already positioned on the front leave the protective cover in place over it as you wax the backplate Once all the pole screen parts have been waxed take the stitching remove the protective cover from the double sided tape and position the stitching carefully on the backplate To make sure the stitching is positioned correctly on the backplate slide the backplate onto the pole first and use the pole as a visual guide Keep re positioning

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-pole-screen/ (2016-04-28)
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  • Make a rectangular stool | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    a sewing scooping one When the stitching is complete if it has become slightly mis shapen especially if you did not use a card mount to hold the silk gauze taut press it on the reverse side with a medium hot iron with steam on a padded ironing board pulling the fabric gently if necessary to get it dead square Trim the finished stitching so that there is a margin of half an inch of unworked gauze on each side It is NOT necessary or desirable to use a fabric glue around the edges first With a sharp pencil lightly mark the centre points along each of the four sides in the unworked border on both sides of the gauze Mark the centre lines in pencil on the card then carefully glue the backing card to the foam using white tacky glue see the assembly instructions further down this page These lines will make it much easier to position your stitching centrally on the foam pad Using white tacky glue spread a line about three eighths of an inch wide along one long edge of the card backing board not the gauze Leave the glue to dry off for a few moments then place the foam pad centrally onto the back of your stitching card side up using the pencilled guidelines to ensure that it is lined up Wrap the gauze around the foam pad and press the gauze into place onto the card Briefly turn the pad over to make sure that the design is centrally positioned then leave the glue to dry completely Repeat this gluing and wrapping process with the second long edge Do not rush this stage Next trim the spare gauze which overhangs the short edges cutting off a piece a quarter of an inch by the depth of the overhang This will reduce bulk Crease the gauze ready to fold it up over the backing board as you would when wrapping a parcel Spread glue along one of the short edges of the card backing board Wrap the gauze up and around the foam pad pulling tightly just before pressing down onto the board in order to get neat corners Check that the design is still central on the pad When the glue has dried repeat for the fourth side TO ASSEMBLE THE STOOL First identify the wooden parts referring to the instruction sheet that comes with the kit Lightly sand all the wooden components Glue the foam pad to the cardboard piece pressing together firmly and leave to dry completely See the separate stitching assembly instructions for how to mount the stitching on the pad above Place the large wooden base piece on a flat surface and spread glue thinly over the ends one at a time then fix the short end pieces into position holding in place for a few seconds Once the glue has completely dried add the long sides in the same way This should create a shallow rebate on

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-rectangular-stool/ (2016-04-28)
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  • Make a sampler | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    it is already coloured The kits contain a fully finished wooden frame in a medium oak colour varnish along with the stitching kit so once the stitching is finished you don t have to hunt around for a suitable frame to put it in To start with identify the thread colours using the colour key Using tent stitch as indicated on the diagram start the design in the centre Remember that one square on the chart equals one stitch and always use a stabbing motion not a sewing one See the NEEDLEPOINT STITCHES and COUNTING FROM A COLOUR BLOCK CHART tutorials if you are new to miniature needlepoint As evenweave fabric is more robust than silk gauze of the same count I don t usually use a frame of any kind when stitching small projects such as this on it However if you prefer to use one anyway then make up a card mount of 3 x 3 ½ with an aperture of 2 x 2 ½ refer to the instructions given in the How to mount silk gauze tutorial Using one strand of thread in the needle begin each length by knotting one end and taking the needle from the front to the back of the evenweave fabric about half an inch away from where you intend to start stitching Stitch towards the knot securing the underlying thread as you go Snip the knot off when you reach it Finish each length by running the needle under a few threads on the back When the stitching is complete press it face down over a soft pad such as a towel using an iron on medium setting pulling the fabric gently if necessary to get it dead square To mount the fabric in the picture frame first make a backing card from any suitable piece of thin cardboard or stiff paper Measure the aperture of the frame in both directions and cut the cardboard a tiny bit smaller than this just one millimetre will do so that it will sit in the aperture and rest on the rebate without touching the sides but not so small that it would fall straight through From side to side this aperture measures 4 cm exactly so I would cut the card 3 9cm wide Place the stitching face up on a flat surface and using the backing card as a guide lightly mark the cutting lines with a pencil one fabric thread wider than the card Make sure that the fabric is centred underneath the card as you do this I find it easier to mark the vertical lines first and trim them to the correct width before marking the horizontal ones and then cutting those Check the fit of the fabric in the frame each time you adjust the size using the card backing as well for a precise fit If the fabric buckles at all then it is still too large in that case carefully trim off one fabric thread at

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-sampler/ (2016-04-28)
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  • Make a table centre | Dollhouse Needlepoint Kits
    a piece of 32 count silk gauze each kit contains a colour block chart to count the design from a suitable needle Anchor stranded cotton use one strand and full instructions This tutorial features the Christmas Candles doll s house table centre design which can be seen in our ONLINE SHOP If you have never done miniature needlepoint before start by reading the BASIC EQUIPMENT and NEEDLEPOINT STITCHES tutorials first then come back to this page Before you begin stitching you will need to make a card mount for the silk gauze This will make it much easier to work on and help to keep your stitch tension even Cut a piece of stiff card 3¼ x 3¼ inches with an aperture of 2¼ x 2¼ inches Fix the silk gauze to the card with masking tape along all four edges as tautly as possible See the HOW TO MOUNT SILK GAUZE tutorial for details Identify the thread colours supplied in the kit using the colour key then using one strand of the Anchor stranded cotton start the design in the centre using tent stitch Remember that one square on the chart equals one stitch and always use a stabbing motion not a sewing scooping one When the stitching is complete if it has become slightly mis shapen especially if you did not use a card mount to hold the silk gauze taut press it on the reverse side with a medium hot iron over a padded ironing board pulling the fabric gently if necessary to get it dead square Hold the gauze piece face down and run a line of fabric glue such as Fray Check around the edge of the stitching about a quarter of an inch wide Wait for the glue to dry completely then with a

    Original URL path: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk/tutorials/make-a-table-centre/ (2016-04-28)
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